Cycle Touring on the South Island of New Zealand

by Susan Otcenas

Tuesday, January 4th, 2005 -

Distance: 77.1 km
Average speed: 15.2 kph
Time in saddle 5:04
Max speed 51.3kph for Susan - Jeff hit 60kph
Departure 8:15 am
Arrival 4:45 pm
Temps hovered around 70F all day.

Outside Arrowtown. I want to live here!

When I told a kiwi friend of mine that we would be cycling over the Crown Range Road, she said I was nuts.

Beginning the climb up the Crown Range

20km out of Queenstown (and just beyond the very quaint village of Arrowtown, where we fueled up on smoothies and croissants - YUM), the road begins a series of steep switchbacks that climb steadily for 3 km. The road has no center line, nor guardrails, and I consider it to be a lane and a half wide, rather than 2. To avoid having cars moving in opposite directions attempt to pass us at the same time, we asserted our right to the lane - to do otherwise would have been to risk being pushed too close to the edge of the road. Again, no guardrails.

The road levels out for a bit, with a rest stop affording beautifuls views back to Arrowtown and beyond.

Jeff on the Crown Range Road

Then the road tilts sharply upwards again for 6km, which tested my ability to keep moving. Let's just say I took lots of "photo breaks"!

Very Steep grades

So, here I am, crawling my way uphill at about 4kph, and I begin hearing a buzzing noise. It's getting louder, prompting me to check my eyeglass mirror for the source of the noise. Along comes a cyclist from Team Healthnet being motorpaced up the hill by a moped (methinks perhaps Greg Henderson, the only Kiwi on the team). With bulging thighs (oooh la la), great tan, and no sign of breathing hard, he smiled at me, said hi, and continued on up the steep slope. I, of course, refused to stop to catch my breath until he was safely out of sight around a bend.

We finally topped out at almost 1100 meters and took in the views.

Almost to the top

The summit!

Now, what one thing can spoil a descent for a cyclist? You guessed it - HEADWINDS. It's just not right to have to pedal downhill after working so dang hard to get UPhill.

We stopped for lunch at the quaint Cardrona Hotel. From the front it looks like a shack, but is actually a beautifully maintained old hotel with lush green grounds and an outdoor patio area. After all that climbing, we were ready to eat!

Cardrona Hotel

Grounds of the hotel

We took turns pulling into the wind for the next 15 kilometers. Scenery along the way included the fence of bras. No kidding.

Fence of bras

Bras only, please

Once at our hostel, we had showers and relaxed. Jeff has been battling a headcold for several days now, and it seems to be coming on very strong tonite. He also has very sore Achilles tendons, something we'll have to keep an eye on.

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