Cycle Touring on the South Island of New Zealand

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Friday, December 31th, 2004 - Tuatapere to Te Anau

Distance: 105.5 km
Average speed: 17.4 kph
Time in saddle 6:04
Max speed 50.5kph
Departure 9:00am
Arrival 4:45 pm
Temperatures - ranged from 48 F to 50 F, with heavy rain most of the day.

It's a terrible thing to dread a bike ride. Yet I dreaded today's. The rain didn't let up all night, and at breakfast, it was still pouring. No wind, just straight-down heavy rain. As there would be no opportunity to get inside until Manapouri at 85K, we stocked our handlebar bags full of munchies at the little store beside the hotel.

Flooded fields

All the rivers and streams were roaring, most overflowing their banks with muddy turbulent water. At the Clifden Suspension Bridge, we watched in shock as a tree detached itself from the hillside and crashed down into the river.

Clifden Bridge

For much of the day, we climbed gently on the traffic-free road. The only significant climb of the day was Jericho Hill, which was quite steep on the way up (read: foggy glasses) and absolutely FRIGID on the way down. Combine cold rain, wet gloves and 48 degree temps with a high speed descent…Brrrrr.

Climbing Jericho Hill

Finally around 65K the weather started to improve. By 85K and Lake Manapouri, the roads dried out. After a warm snack in town, we saddled up for the final 20K. Wonder of wonders, the sun made its first appearance of the trip and we were able to shed our jackets and dry out a bit.

Our B&B for the evening was House of Wood. This is a lovely place on a quiet residential street, with a friendly Australian host. Despite it being New Year's Eve, we drifted off to sleep by 10:00, only awakening briefly at midnight to the sounds of firecrackers in the street.

Giant trees on the shore of Lake Te Anau

NEXT PAGE: Te Anau to Milford Sound